Friday 25 April 2014

We're going to the beach, beach, beach

On Thursday morning we took a bus load of kids to the beach. The kid selection seemed to be based on who was not currently completely sick with the flu or diarrhea I think the mothers at the orphanage were pretty happy to be rid of 9 kids for an hour or so - seeing as all the rest have the flu or diarrhea!

Our selection included kids with very severe CP or disabilities who spend all day in their cots, except when we come and they spend some time doing physio and some time in a wheelchair.
Kids with down syndrome who are able to walk or crawl around the orphanage, but are bored out of their minds most the time because they lack play skills or language.
Kids who are typically developing, but these two both had snotty noses and the start of fevers - so the salt water would have done them good!

The water was beautiful and clean, warm and calm. Perfect beach weather!

 I took Nga, my little signing buddy along. I thought she would love it.... and was a bit worried she would run around / away (she is very fast! and always trying to climb into cars when they arrive at the orphanage). But she actually was scared and just wanted to be carried as soon as we got out of the van. Once we got near the water she attached herself to me like a barnacle, and there was no way I would be able to remove her!
I assume she must have been before and been knocked over by a wave / scared by the water in some way.

I kept hoping that if I kept her safe, and comfortable she would eventually relax. No chance. The only time she didn't hold on with both arms and legs was when she released one arm to attempt to swim me back to the shore. - so she understands the concept of paddling.

One of the best successes was Hung. He is the oldest child at the orphanage (about 14years) and spends all day in a cot, or in his chair. We have recently got some smiles and laughs out of him using a vibrating pillow (thanks for finding that Ann!!). However his life is so limited, so restricted, and he doesn't really seem comfortable most of the time.

Hung in the chair
While in the water he relaxed, and seemed to enjoy it..... but it was almost like it took the whole swim for his sensory system to actually catch up. as we dried off and got back into the van he started laughing, and reaching and kicking out with his arms and legs. No one has ever seen that much active movement! when we got him showered off and back in bed he was looking around alert, seemed to be focusing occasionally on people's faces and actually taking in his environment. I have never seen that before.
His laugh is amazing, he winds up for a few seconds before launching into the giant laugh - ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, hahahahaha

He got so much out of it! we absolutely have to go again. And to think, we were taking him mostly for the skin benefits because he always seems to have rashes, or broken skin.

It was just so great to have the students so that we could take a baby each and end up with 9 kids in the water! Can't wait to do it all again. I am hoping to recruit some of my new Vietnamese friends to help out so we have enough hands to go again another day. 




Thursday 24 April 2014

Cooking with Mrs Hanh

On Wednesday's we drive to Tam Ky to visit a dioxin centre. It is a 1.5-2 hour drive.... but the dioxin centre / school / vocational workshop is so awesome, and has so much potential it is definitely worth it!! (more on this once I get my hands on the photos and videos of Macarena with the kids!
Serious chopping action!

After our visits to the centre we go visit Mrs Hanh and her amazing restaurant/function hall/wedding venue for lunch. It is amazing, and there is always way too much food! delicious delicious food!

she is also a champion chopper. Seriously, I have never seen someone cut carrot, tomatoes, pineapple - basically anything so perfect and small and neat.
Amazing eggplant of magic - this will be getting made when I return,
so come visit me if you want some!

Now - time for ... MAGIC PEANUT SAUCE
Mrs Hanh making magic

Blend 
1 cup roasted peanuts and 1/3 cup sesame seeds until small bits

Dice baby onions, 3 garlic cloves and 1 red chilli.
Very very finely dice:    one small peeled tomato, 1/4 cup peeled carrot, 1/4 cup pineapple.
Sauce
mix 1/3 cup white sugar, 1/2 cup water, 1/3 cup fish sauce and 1/2 a lime juice in a bowl.

Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in deep pot, fry onion until brown.
add tomato and allow to cook through, add carrots and pineapple, 1/2 the peanuts, fish sauce mix, garlic and chilli. 
Cook for about 5 minutes

Mix sauce and remaining peanuts in serving bowl.
Perfect for any dipping sauce - spring rolls, vegetables, bread

The peanut sauce of awesome
Enjoy







Monday 21 April 2014

Festival Hue!

On the weekend I found myself in Hue for the international festival. It happens every second year, and is apparently a pretty big deal. unfortunately, they seem to make it hard for visitors - until the actual festival had already started it was impossible to get a program (and nothing was on their website) to find out when things are on and what I should go do.
Then when I did manage to get my hands on a program - there is no map, and most of the locations were a names park or something, which isn't well known, or marked on maps, or easy to find.

But I did managed to get to a couple of places!

The citadel had an "Imperial nights" performance. Basically lots of lanterns and lights and people dressed in traditional costumes doing processions and performances.


Lantern holders lining the pathways
Girls waiting for their performance
Life in the harem
some form of royal procession
the biggest flag I have ever seen!


In addition there was meant to be lots of art and displays of traditional printing and clothes.
I went to a building which allegedly had art etc. It had big banners outside the gates, and right next to an open door advertising the exhibition. I walked in and found an empty hallway with lots of doors (some hanging from hinges or with panes of glass missing - all padlocked. It felt a lot like a horror movie haunted house. I went back outside.... and confirmed that indeed the giant banner advertising the printing exhibition was right next to the door, and appeared to be pointing in. I went back into the scary hallway and walked to the end. There was a stairwell.... with a printed sign saying "please do not go for looking upstairs". At that point I was pretty certain upstairs contained chopped up bodies... and going upstairs would be what the idiot in the horror movie does - so I bailed out of there!

Instead it seemed like high time to have a relaxing massage and not get murdered.

Of course, having a massage in Vietnam runs on a whole different set of rules.

From the disrobing while your massage lady stands there looking expectant, to the now we are doing a body scrub and she rips off my underpants.
The strange Dexter like plastic sheeting used to stop my coffee flavoured body scrub from leaking onto the bed (which she then wrapped me in like some sort of coffee flavoured caterpillar. To the finale - in which I showered off the coffee scrub, but wasn't allowed to wash myself.

The being naked-in-front-of-a-stranger thing was ok when I was lying facedown, or could close my eyes and ignore it.... but it is a whole new level of strange when I wasn't allowed to wash myself, and was made to instead squat so that I was short enough for the tiny Vietnamese woman to wash me. And then she kept making eye contact and smiling.... which took it into a whole new level of bizarre!!

It was a lovely massage. I actually think my back is a little bruised, because it feels awesome, and so relaxed - but if I touch my back it is tender! but when you massage in Vietnam it becomes a whole new level of closeness. A coffee scrub and massage in an airconditioned room is a pretty good hangover cure too!






Sunday 20 April 2014

the great outdoors

Making the orphanage courtyard a little nicer, a little safer and much more accessible for the kiddies!!

Kids at the door of the room they live in. Just this one single room, all the time!

One day we let the children out of their single room and allowed them to be "outside"
- Outside in this context meaning in a covered concrete courtyard. They were incredibly excited..... once they  got over being scared! These kids live in one room. When they get bathed they go to a different room. And when they are sick they might get taken out to a doctor - but that's hardly a fun trip out! Otherwise always in one room with up to 9 other kids.

Enjoying playing outside for the first time in their lives!
The pure excitement and joy on their faces was amazing! and I had to make this more permanent!!

Kids walking around the courtyard. note the large pane of glass on the right, rusty and spiky clothes lines on the left and the permanent wet/slippery patch in the corner. 

Here are some photos of the outside area pre-Lucyfication
Garden - complete with broken wood, tetanus nails, and broken glass

Large wall - looking very haunted-house-esk

otherside of the area, bike parking and weird dangerous clotheslines (nails sticking out of wood that they hang the washing on) 

This corner is permanently wet and slippery, and features storage for random bits of glass.



First job, Finding a way that this works for the carers.
 If it doesn't work for them there is no point. They need space to hang clothes, they need the kids to be safe and not finding rusty nails ad broken glass, they need it not to take up their limited time. So we agreed that the half of the courtyard near the gate be for the washing to dry and people to park their motorbikes. The half near the house for the kids to play. So I contracted some guys to build a fence, and I painted it pretty colours :)



Second job: One wall is covered in mould and the paint bursts into dust clouds when you touch it....
that ain't acceptable! So a whole lot of scrubbing and cleaning through years and years of paint! I went through 4 different COLOURS of paint on the low wall..... no idea how many layers, or years that represents.

The large wall is mouldy and dirty and just ugly. But, big and flat and perfect for murals!! So I managed to find a friend of a friend of a new Vietnamese friend - who is an arts student and willing to paint a mural for free to help the kids out! YEY! Another round of lots of scrubbing and paint scraping and cleaning. From this wall, I more than half filled a shopping bag with paint chips/dust. It isn't that big of a wall!
- of course, if a local person had done this it would have all been completed in an afternoon. They would have slapped a big, thick coat of paint over the peeling, mouldy paint currently on the wall. It would have looked vaguely shiny for a couple of months.... then all fallen off.
I'm not into that - so we scrubbed that wall to within an inch of it's life (or through an inch of paint anyway!)

The roof always leaks down onto the wall. So I had to explain a number of times - there is no point us painting this while it is leaking.... how do we fix it. but eventually the roof got fixed in an extremely Vietnam way - a piece of rusty, scary twisted metal that i am 100% sure was scrounged from the side of the road somewhere to go over the larger gap and a bucket of concrete to cover over the smaller gap.

Painters with our nice new clean white wall!



the smaller wall, I have to finish adding some more letters to
make this one be more interesting as well
Third job: The scary garden
There is a particularly sad looking garden in the courtyard. This is lovely for the kids to see trees, and leaves (one child pointed at the leaf and asked in Vietnamese "Is it a fish?" he had never seen leaves before and so was just trying to work out what it was and guess at words he had heard people say) and could be nice. The dirt in the garden is sand and bits of broken bricks and concrete. I don't know why you would dump all you chunks of concrete in there - but that's what it is! It also features a number of planks of wood with rusty nails coming out, and bits of broken glass (even a glass cup that was broken and just placed in the garden - WHY!).
So I cleaned out all the glass I could find, and the wood and made a nice fake grass lawn!

New garden bed

 Fourth job: Something nice for the kids to do!
The kids loved just being outside that first time! That's great.... but I still wanted fun things for them to do. So I got the fence builders to also build a ball pit, and acquired 500 balls!

At first the kids were a bit scared.... although I later discovered that this is because people threw them in with no one inside to help them not drown in balls! Once I got in with them - they were very happy to play!

I discovered upstairs a perfectly fine rocking horse - it was just hidden upstairs because apparently the kids would fight over it. Now, when there was 6 walkers in the room.... and they had nothing else to do, I could see they might fight over this great looking toy. But having to learn to share toys, to play with each other instead of just hoarding as many toys as possible is a pretty intensely important skill for these kids to learn. How will they ever learn that when nobody sits with them to play productively. Or shows them how to take turns! So that rocking horse is coming back!

these faces melt hearts!

Nice soft mats for smaller kids to get some outside time too

Playing on the rocking horse and the scooter board




I am so happy with how the wall painting and out side area has turned out!

Even more happy that the carers at this orphanage seem to like it too (and are realising that the kids can burn energy outside and fight less, because they have more space!).

 The carers are also letting kids come out without my prompting.... in fact, I am glad to be finished and packing up the paint scrappers, and buckets of paint seeing as often while I was working on the wall a few kids would get brought out.... supervised for a few minutes - then the carer would go inside and I would be stressing that someone is going to smash someone else on the head with a paint scrapper or something!




Friday 11 April 2014

Photography - people of Vietnam

Here's a collection of some of my favourite photos of people. Expect more to be coming soon.... In early May I am doing a 3 day photography workshop (exciting!).


Physio's daughter being particularly photogenic during Tet



Boat woman in Hoi An



Kids at home of affection engrossed with candles on a birthday cake

Girl at home of affection coming for cuddles

Boat man in Hoi An

Young girl in a minority village in central Vietnam



Planting rice in the burnt fields. all these women were very keen to meet me and give me their stabbing sticks so I could have a turn planting the rice. 
Young girl in minority village


She was still shy, even when her sister came to join the photo fun!
Minority women walking home from the fields
Family coming back from a fishing trip in the river
Woman buying fish in the markets

Thursday 3 April 2014

Paying... to volunteer???

Altering wheelchairs in Tam Ky
While I travel I meet a lot of other travellers, at hotels or restaurants (often taking pity on me while I dine alone.... and starting conversations!). The topic of conversation often leads to how long are you travelling? 9 months, then I have to explain why I have been in Vietnam for 3 months already and not seen much of the country! Because I volunteer in Danang.

This leads to a discussion about the sort of volunteering and how it all works. Usually to people being surprised  that I "pay" or telling some story about how they were going to volunteer doing construction (or whatever) because they just finished some course about construction, but the people wanted $600 for the 3 weeks and so they decided to not volunteer. This was after they discussed how they have been travelling with their buddies, but it was much more expensive then when they travel alone - and they spent $5000 in 4 weeks!!

So, my opinions on "paying" to volunteer

1. What exactly does that include? For me the fee includes a beautiful house, all my meals cooked and ready for me, transport to and from the various locations everyday and a selection of resources to use with the kids (albeit a selection needing augmentation!). When I think of the costs of staying in a hotel, eating at restaurants (which would also be lesser quality food!), taxi's to and from the orphanages everyday.... that all adds up super quickly!

Kids at the baby orphanage
2. What sort of English speaking support are you getting? The truth is.... unless you have learnt to speak FLUENTLY the language of wherever you are,  you are going to be a hinderance to the local workers.
I have been working at the Redcross orphanage for 2 months, I understand the routines and the jobs that need doing and can do these with no assistance. But then, the mothers will be trying to ask, has this one been fed? or that one? I have picked up enough that with poor Vietnamese and sign language I can answer... kind of. But It also helps that I have translators on hand to ensure the kids all get fed!
And that's after 2 months. If you just turn up somewhere and try to get involved... without being able to talk to the people there, you will get in the way, take up their time while they are trying to show you, do things wrong, generally make their life harder! This is especially true if you are only planning to do 2 weeks of work during your backpacking holiday... or whatever.

It is also vitally important to have the translators for explaining those things that just seem really weird and wrong. Example: one of the girls who was tied up all day. For the first month, I never saw her tied to her cot. Then suddenly, she was roped in. I untied her played for a while, went to change more nappies.... and then looked back and lo and behold - she's tied up again. Eventually I asked and it was explained that while we had lots of volunteers around she would stay in the orphanage. But when it isn't busy with people, and she stops getting attention she often wanders off and once was found on the main highway, just wandering. So for her own safety, she is tied up. This is terrible and sad, and could easily be fixed by CLOSING THE GATE and adding a latch up high. But at least I understood, and I stopped untying her until I could go and spend time playing.

Play with the kids after our English lessons
My fees also cover some of the wages for three Vietnamese locals to run the business, transport us, come to orphanages and translate, and I know that they go and help out in orphanages even when there are no volunteers! This money goes to local people, who will spend it on other local people.


If on a construction site, or in a school - you are going to need just as much instruction or assistance from an English speaker as I do in my orphanage (no doubt more, especially if you are only there for a few weeks!). That person needs to be paid, chances are the person who speaks English isn't a construction worker but has in fact been hired purely for the purpose of helping volunteers. The cost of hiring an English speaking guide is probably more than the cost of one of two extra workers that would be doing the job you are going to do.... So just remember that you are probably less useful than you think. By no means am I saying don't volunteer.... but be willing to pay the wages of the people who have to be there to support you!
More post-English lesson games!

3. Remember all the other costs.....
There seem to be huge amounts of paperwork that need to be completed for the Vietnamese government EVERYtime a new person comes to volunteer. Or an old person comes back a second time. This adds a lot of admin time as well as various fees.

Plus you must have found out about the volunteering opportunity somehow - do they advertise? do they run a website? all these things cost money.

My point is:
Volunteering is an amazing experience. You will learn so much about other cultures, your own culture, yourself. You will be helpful to the place you go and you will help make kids happy and healthy. You will gain new skills and probably have an amazing holiday/volunteer-iday that you will never forget! I would 100% recommend that if you think you would like to volunteer - GO FOR IT!

But do it right - Be willing to pay for the people who you need to support you.

 (but be wary of how much you're being asked to pay - and is that going into the pockets of some big company based in America, or Australia or where ever.... Or is it going to local people and to pay for the things you need - in country support may mean people with you all the time and who are also helping out themselves - changing nappies, doing therapy. Or the option to phone someone who sits in a office all day whenever you need help.).