Travels

The last two week featured visits from Patrick (yey!)

 We hung out in Hanoi for a few days. Spent plenty of time walking around the streets getting accosted by fruit selling women (they have this desire to thrust their fruit baskets at me and insist that photos are taken. I declined this offer.), avoiding scams by bread selling women (I just wanted one sweet bread for each of us... she put about 15 things in a bag and demanded exorbitant amounts of money, when she continued to resist giving only two things I decided I had had enough and walked off..... she then followed and grabbed hold of me twice trying to sell the damn bread) and taking in the insanity that is Hanoi.
These photos were taken on our walk (complete with the necessary ice cream stops) around the lake. Hanoi is actually quite a beautiful city, lots of green space. This lake in the centre of the old town is just one of the garden areas that locals like to come to to relax, exercise and do some ballroom dancing.
The story goes that an emperor was boating on the lake and a magic turtle gave him a sword with which he was able to defeat his enemies. Some time later on another boat trip the turtle returned and snatched back the sword... where it waits at the bottom of the lake.

We also went to see water puppet theatre. This was awesome! I didn't really know what to expect, but the puppets are controlled via underwater rods and levers, with the puppeteers hiding in the water behind a screen. You could only really see the rods if you looked closely, and only because we were sitting above the water a bit. But the arms and heads move around with no visible strings or controllers. It was great. All the scenes also related to water type activities, like rice planting, buffalo swimming, fishing and dragons. The fire breathing / water shooting dragons with segmented bodies that moved through the water were amazing. But I failed to take any photos, partly because I was busy watching and party because the person two rows ahead of us who kept lifting her camera up high to take photos was incredibly annoying - and I didn't want to be that guy!

With our Hanoi Kids guides

I also heard about an organisation called Hanoi Kids. They offer free tours of the city by university students who are wanting to practice their English by regularly talking to native English speakers. The deal is that we as tourists pay for the transport costs and any entry fees. And in return we get a tour, explanations of places that often don't have many English signs and the chance to chat with locals about their lives and experiences (which we all enjoyed so much we ended up spending over an hour drinking one cup of coffee!).



With them we visited the Hanoi Hilton (aka prison originally built by the french to contain and torture Vietnamese revolutionaries, later used to contain captured US pilots). This is a bit of a surreal place with a heavy influence on the mistreatment of Vietnamese by the French and a couple of rooms devoted to showing how well they looked after the American prisoners. I assume that the actual treatment was probably somewhere in between what America says and what Vietnam says.... that's usually the way.

with a statue representative the height of Vietnamese people
at whatever point in time that was (I forgot)

We also visited the temple of literature. It was quite interesting to hear the history of this temple, and the modern uses from the point of view of uni students (who regularly come to pray for luck before exams)

We attempted to visit Ho Chi Minh's tomb.... but neither our hotel reception (when we asked if our clothes were conservative enough), nor the guides actually mentioned that on Friday afternoons it is closed. So we walked around the outside a bit.

The view from our bungalow

Mai Chau was stunning! It took four hours in a van to get there, but definitely worth it! I was a little worried that it would be a bit of a tinsly tourist town (like my experience of visiting that "traditional village" near Buon Ma Thout). It was actually really empty and relaxing, we were even there on a weekend (apparently a lot of locals visit on weekends) but even then it wasn't too busy. The air was clean and the lack of traffic was welcome after a few days in Hanoi! Bike riding and hanging out in the rice fields was fun.
Climbing up to the 1000 steps caves was less fun and more hot, especially as I am told it is in fact 1200 steps! But the satisfaction of beating the steps was worth it... I guess. We also found a mysterious path at the back of the cave which was obviously designed to be explored - it had hand rails.... but then the guide yelled at us to come back and appear to be quite agitated. Maybe there were ghosts back there. I find lots of times that people here do thing I can't explain it all comes down to ghost actions.

Yey, bikes!

 
 Staying in Mai Chau also means you get obligatory after dinner entertainment in the form of "traditional dances".

This is a kind of awkward affair, the first dance featured eight people standing in a line holding hands, then swinging their arms back and forth. A bit like a grade 1 Christmas show dance. But with adults. After this first dance the men dancers all sat down and enjoyed the bucket bong in the corner while the ladies danced. As the grand finale everyone returned for a bamboo dance. Hard to explain without seeing it yourself. but two people hold two pieces of bamboo on the ground and hit them down twice, then smash them together. Meanwhile dancers jump in and put pf the bamboo, avoid getting their ankles smashed. Everyone was brought up to join in the dance. Which got more and more hilarious as we discovered how bad at timing the group of Vietnamese girls on the tour were..... especially when they wanted to hold the bamboo and do that bit! a couple of people got bruised ankles in that portion of the dancing!

Halong bay

Next stop, Halong bay!
Boating around, drinking expensive cocktails (I have been in Vietnam too long and every seems expensive now. These were $4-6 cocktails.... I will not cope with Australia prices) and relaxing on the beach. Pretty awesome!

Halong bay is made up of limestone cliff islands. The landscape is pretty stunning and once you get out and away from the ridiculous amounts of diesel smoke it is amazing. As a bonus, because it is limestone cliffs it has lots of caves, like this one. I have found that Vietnam in general has a bit of an obsession with caves, and they have many caves. This one featured bonus lights-of-every-colour and rocks that looked vaguely like stuff if you squinted really hard and pretended!

Fishing boats in a sheltered bay

We also kayaked around some of the cliffs and through caves.

Swimming wasn't totally the nicest, because even moored in the "clean water swimming spot" there were patches of oil in the water. I really hope that boat owners (at least the tourist boats) see that people are not into the smokey polluting boats and they need to do some vaguely regular maintenance to actually keep the bay nice!

But swimming did involve water entry from the very top of the boat. So I was into the jumping-off-the-sun-deck thing :)

I had heard from various people that Halong Bay was disappointing, or dirty and polluted. I found it beautiful! Yes, there was pollution from all the boats, but some places seem to be striving to reduce that. Our hotel on Monkey island was collecting all the flotsam that came near the beach and burning it. I am sure it's probably as much about keeping their private beach nice as it i about reducing pollution. But they didn't wait for the tide to wash stuff away.

Hopefully everyone (tourists and locals alike) will try to keep it nice. but we had a great time!

That's pretty much our first week wrapped up. Will add more about the second week later!

sunset drinks on the balcony. life is good

Last projects

One of my last projects for the red cross orphanage, building security gates.

Kids playing in the gated room

To put this into context I need to explain a bit about the orphanage system. So the red cross has 24 kids. 4 of these kids have cerebral palsy and are unable to sit up, or participate in self care activities like feeding themselves.
4 of the other kids also have disabilities, but are mobile and able to get around the orphanage. This means that they can get into all sorts of mischief!
3 of the other kids are around 3 or 4, so they are also quite mischievous and really want to have lots of attention, plus all the older mobile kids can easily steal toys or treats from the younger kids.
The rest of the kids are under 1. Only two of the kids are toilet trained, so the rest need to wear nappies. To look after all these kids are 3 to 4 carers. They work 24 hours a day, 7 days a week with 3 or 4 days off a month.

Slightly more controlled madness 

Because they are so overworked, and a lot of the kids are able to climb out of the cots, they tie the kids into the cots with a rope made of handkerchiefs tied together. When we arrive in the morning at around 8am we untie the kids and because we have the extra supervision can let them run around and play. I believe they get re tied up at lunch time when we leave.

When asked why they have to be tied in I am told it is to stop kids getting into the bathroom and burning themselves with the hot water, or getting into the kitchen and hurting themselves. I am sure a big part is also around them making messes in the storage areas that the carers really don't have time to clean up. Some of their reasoning about safety doesn't really make much sense though, frequently the carers don't shut the door to the bathroom which would work just as well to prevent burns, or shut the gate out onto the road!

I negotiated with the carers around trying to stop the tying up of kids. As well as stopping them from being allowed or able to play with each other, or socialize, it also is often tied very tightly and looks painful, and can cause rashes and skin infections. So I decided to pay to get gates put on the main room and so as long as the carers shut the gate, and shut the bathroom doors than the kids should be safe and able to be free!
The gates are a lot higher than normal baby safety gates, but these kids are really good climbers!!


So the first day that we arrived once the gates were completed the kids had all been taken out of cots when they woke up (which I'm guessing is pretty early) and were playing and running around freely!

Talking to the carers they said they really like the gates, and it is a lot easier as they can now move freely between the kitchen and store rooms without having to watch the kids as much.
Definitely a success!!

Ngan

Lovely little Ngân is doing amazingly! For those who don't recall she is a 9 yeast old with cerebral palsy that we see at our drop in clinic.
If you want to see her original post it is in January
Just before I went away to Cambodia Sandie and i put our heads together to find a walker that Ngân would be able to use independently. A local handgun was able to come up with this. Ngân loved it immediately. Last week I asked to see her at home so that I could check up on how she is going in the walker. Mostly wanting to make sure that nothing is going wrong or possibly causing issues. The walker is a bit bulky to bring into the clinic!

 Ngân is going great guns in her walker. Great guns being as well as can be expected, considering her crouch gait, and with extreme joy and enthusiasm! She is tending to sit on the seat and peddle with her legs rather than standing, but with no achilles tendons building the strength to stand with straight knees is near impossible - yet alone on one leg to step! We did try a few different set ups to see if we could get her supporting her own weight more, but nothing really worked. We discussed focusing more on standing upright.


The absolutely best thing about the walker, the bit that made me so happy and where I feel the biggest benefit is........
In the afternoons, when it is cool, Ngân goes walking in the street with all the other neighborhood children! How freaking amazing is that. In the past she would have been lying inn her lounge room, maybe out on the porch. But walking around the streets with the other kids. Beautiful.

I think sometimes dad helps out, but I was told that if he is busy the other kids with help out, if she gets stuck on something (it's a bulky frame) or if a car comes and they need to move quick. Mum was worried that she is spending too much time and asked me if there is a maximum amount of walking time she should be doing... apparently it is often hours every day!
I just honestly can't get over the quality of life boost for this girl!


Of course, the hospitality involved in this home visit was overwhelmingly beautiful. As soon as we arrived mum delivered tea and I could hear her saying bun beo and "an" which i recognized as a type of food and eat.
I insisted that I had indeed eaten lunch, and didn't need any bun beo. The eat topic didn't get dropped...... I could hear the conversation going on behind my back. Some understanding seemed to be reached, i assumed that we would be presented some biscuits or fruit..... something snacky that we could nibble on. Refusing food is a bit rude, so I figured I could handle nibbling. Nothing appeared and to be honest I completely forgot about the eating issue....... until we tried to leave. At this pointy mum looked shocked, and betrayed. She said something that i assume basically translated to "but, but, but, bun beo?"
More negotiations happened...... I assume Mr Phuc was explaining that we have other people to visit. Then everyone looked at me and grinned.
Apparently it was decided that i would return for dinner! That Vietnamese hospitality!!!


So after visiting a couple other families we headed back to Ngân's place. More negotiations occurred..... I believe at this point out was Mr Phuc having to explain why exactly huge wasn't starting for dinner!
Ngân was pretty gosh darn excited to have her dinner guest! As a bonus for me i got to see how well she is able to feed herself. Even using chop sticks most of the time!
Bun beo turns out to be the Hue specialty dish. It was delicious, but not exactly a dish for western tastes...... as far  as I can establish (understanding that mum has the best English there.... and it is minimal!) Bun beo is wet rice paper, covered in a paste made of fish sauce and I'm not really sure what else, which is then liberally sprinkled with powdered shrimp and then you pour fish sauce, or fish sauce mixed with chili on it. So, I really liked it. But man, it's a lot off shrimp/fish sauce!
I did start slowing down on the bun beo rather quickly..... at which point I was getting teased by Ngân for eating too slowly! But it's ok, I have enough Vietnamese to tease Ngan back for being a piggy later when she ate her dragon fruit with no hands.

All in all a great evening of family time :-)