The boat from hell, actually a lovely trip!

We decided to take a boat from Battambang to Siem Reap.
This involved deliberation over a few days as we read various reviews for this boat trip (which would be 8ish hours stuck on a boat once we committed!). Reviews tended to suggest that the boat was a hellish horror ride and everyone was surely going to die on the capsized boat. Other reviews described it as the best part of their trip to Cambodia!

We decided that as long as our expectations were way low.... things could only go up and it would be a better way to see floating village and general life in Cambodia than taking a tour out of Cambodia's most touristy town ever!

our boat

farmlands from the boat

We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the boat. We decided we maybe set expectations a little too low.....There were 6 or 7 of us sitting on the roof (better views, a breeze and more space!) Plus around 20ish people down below.Also note the dark storm clouds that were threatening (and occasionally wetting) us the entire journey.

We were sharing the top of the boat with a dutch girl who kept telling us about how bad the sun is and that we all should go downstairs (she did go downstairs when it warmed up at about 8.30) - we figured that we had hats, long shirts, sunscreen.... and at least here there is an ozone layer to protect us! a kiwi guy, and 2 British girls who really should have been the ones getting the sun lecture.

Having to reapply sunscreen every hour (almost!) and have raincoats on hand for quick cover-ups was worth it for these views!

trading boat, it appeared to trade exclusively in green coconuts and blue poly-pipes

we did get blue sky for parts of the journey

We also past lots of little fishing boats and floating villages. Or people going to or from market, kids being delivered by boat to the floating school. Very different lives! Lots of kids smiling and waving and yelling out hello too. We stopped at various locations dropping of supplies and people before we reached the giant Tonle Sap lake.

Local kids and families

Some of the highlights

These are actually crocodile farms. When we went past a couple I was trying to work out why their fish farm had some much space out of the water. Then, after I managed to see into one, trying to work out why they had tires in them.... Eventually I got a better look and realized they were full of crocodiles

This weed is devastating the rivers. It is seeing stuff like this that makes me so glad that customs and DPI are so strict on people bringing stuff into the country. Apparently this was originally introduced by the French from the Amazon, because they thought it would be a good place for fish to breed and so the people can catch more fish. Turn out, the fish don't eat it, it grows incredibly fast and it jams up boat motors when you drive over it.

Tonle Sap lake. It is gigantic! I don't think think the lake is even really full yet because it is still the very start of the wet season!

exploring Battambang

The bamboo train carriages

Exploring Battambang first required a 6 hour bus ride. Luckily we managed to get into a minivan, so not a giant bus and we managed to get the seats up the front. Although, when we asked the travel agent lady if we can sit in the front she got this confused and scared and appalled look on her face. Then said... "you can sit in the back, not the front.... driver sits in the front". People are so literal! It is like, everyone has autism and takes everything totally literally all the time.

This kid hitched a ride with our train.
He got let off halfway along the track
at what I assume was his house

We found a friendly enough tuk tuk driver to take us from the bus to the hotel and so decided to got on a tour with him the next day.



First up the bamboo train. These train carriages are flat boards with a little motor and two sets of wheels that hook onto the very dodgy train track. Turn out, real trains don't run on this track because the lines are so dodgy and wavy and terrible. For $5 each we got to ride out to the end of the line and back.  It was actually a lot more fun than I had expected. We got to look at the countryside scenery, wave at kids, and the train went quite fast - now I see why people referred to it like a horizontal roller coaster! Especially as some parts the train tracks were noticeably uneven.

Unfortunately at the end of the line you are made to get off and spend 10 minutes standing awkwardly in the centre of a group of market stalls selling scarves and "bamboo train tshirts". At least, awkward if you don't want to buy - or even look at the products in the shop (not look at was because I didn't want the harassing. total indifference is the way to go).

The wibbly tracks

Also a collection of children trying to give us free little things (grasshoppers, stars etc) made from palm leaves. "For you" "no thank you" "Free, free for you" "no thankyou" "TAKE IT it free take it". For a "free" item the kids were incredibly rude and pushy. No doubt because once you take the free thing you are guilted into buying a selection of crap woven bracelets. Or something. I refuse to buy anything, accept tours for money, or give money to kids. My theory is if they are earning cash having fun talking with tourists or by handing out bracelets what is their motivation to go to school? Many kids I have met in Vietnam are so excited to see tourists and talk to them to practice English. And if these kids wanted to talk to us that would have been great fun for everyone - and I would have happily hosted an impromptu English lesson. But no, just forcefully yelling TAKE IT FREE does not make me inclined to interact with them at all.

Anywho, The bamboo train then got loaded back onto the platform for our return journey. we obviously got here before the rest of the tourists because on the return journey we had to disembark and dismantle our train to let other people go on the one way track. The rule is..... the least loaded train has to make way for the other train. It was fun to have to jump off and wave to people going past.... or be the victorious ones who didn't have to jump off!

This is how the dismantle the train to let others pass

The end was also a bit of a let down.... the money taking person started telling us to tip the driver. Personally I hate this. We payed $15 for this short ride on a basic train thing. Our tuk tuk for the whole day of driving around various bumpy country roads, talking to us and telling us stories and Cambodian fables and all his petrol/tuktuk/bike repairs was $20. We actually told the guy that $15 seems like enough money. I think tips are for specially good service. The driver didn't talk with us (I know he probably didn't speak English.... but I have had amazing and hilarious conversations / interactions with people with no actual language being understood on either side). It also wasn't the driver who asked for / looked annoyed when we didn't tip - It was the money taking guy who just sits around in the shade all day. So I wonder if when people tip, he pays the driver less and keeps more for himself. But maybe I am being too sceptical.

Much stairs at Ba Nan

Next we went to Ba Nan temples. These were surprising far away, but a really nice drive down little country roads and past villages. Lots of kids waving and shouting hi! We then had to tackle to formidable 356 steps to the top. The first section seemed like a cruel punishment (not sure why it was so bad.... in Phnom Penh we were staying on the 4th floor of an elevator-less hotel). I actually expected once we reached the top we would have another set as big as the first.... but it was nice and small.
The view over some forests and bamboo groves as well as the old, crumbling temples at the top made the climb well worth it.
Back down for lunch. We were pretty glad that we ate lunch AFTER the climb, we saw a few of the people who were at the bamboo train arriving and lunching - I pity them climbing those stairs on a full stomach!

More stairs. they seemed never ending!

There were 5 temples like this as the reward
at the top of all those stairs!

We were also pretty impressed that people
must have carried all these stones all
the way up this hill!

Some seem a little.... lean-y

Next we loaded back into the tuk-tuk, this time it was a little bit mystery tour like because we forgot to ask where we were going. It was also down a road that had suffered the beginnings of the wet season. But it was interesting because this road is obviously a short cut that gets a lot less tourist actions. People were staring and waving a lot more!

Monkeys hanging on the stairs

Turns out we were headed for a mountain with more steps (yey). The tuk tuk driver did give us the option of paying $3 each to get driven up the mountain. We opted to be cheapscates and get some extra exercise on the stairs. I am so glad we did. The views at each different height were really interesting. Plas I found a random little cave to explore, but I didn't have a light... and no one else came in with me so I had to turn back before it got too dark.We also turned a corner to discover..... treacherous path of monkeys.... Yes, last week I let monkeys crawl all over my head. and that was fun - but I was fairly certain that those monkeys wouldn't bite me (although, one did bite Nancye a little bit) and I was totally sure that those monkeys wouldn't have rabies. These monkeys seemed much less predictable.
We opted to follow the rules of the wildlife path - don't show your teeth, don't threaten and don't look them in the eyes, and slowly walk past the monkeys.
The strategy worked and no one got attacked. Our guide did later tell us that sometimes the monkeys bite people (thanks for the warning buddy!) but I believe those people had fruit / tried to touch or pet the monkeys.

monkeys hanging in trees above the stairs (just waiting
to drop down on someone)

At the top was a pagoda, a series of people guarding the pagoda from monkeys (with slingshots) and a few people trying to sell drinks to thirsty tourists. We found some stairs leading through a cave/valley and back up the other side. We then heading off down the road to find the killing caves (a place where the Khmer Rouge would kill people and use the cave as disposal for bodies). Here we had a 13-ish year old boy come running up and inform us that the killing caves are that way (up a side path that looked to us like it went to a statue of a buddha and nothing much else. We thanked him, and tried to work out how we can walk up there without him being our "guide". Eventually telling him that we don't need a guide. I felt a bit like he did help us, and maybe I should tip him a tiny amount. But he kept harassing us. Telling us that he needs money for school and going and going and going. We also quickly realised that actually, where we were walking towards would have taken us directly to the cave, and his directions were a detour designed to make us feel like we need to pay him.

The view from the top. 

the random cave we found to walk through.

The caves here didn't really have any information or much to look at. But, we also didn't have to pay to get in. I was glad that we walked up the stairs though - that was definitely the highlight of that part of the trip.

The amazing incredible fairly lame bat cave

Once back down the driver asked if we want to stay to watch the bats come out. He said it would be at about 5pm (in an hour). I have seen plenty of fruit bats at Tolga.... but I didn't mind sitting and having a cool drink to wait if the other people wanted to watch. 5 turned into 6.... and we were fairly ready to leave - but just as we asked to go the bats started. I guess if you watched the bats for an hour, the shear number might be amazing. but I expected more to be pouring out like some amazing column of batty goodness.







The next morning we were up bright and early to have breakfast. We thought it would be easiest to get breakfast at our hotel....  the sign said we had to order 30minutes before - but that way we could finish getting ready for our morning cooking class while we wait and still have time to walk into town for the class.

Market tour with the cooking class

Over an hour later I started to hunger rage a little bit.... particularly when we saw 3 takeaway boxes that had to be our breakfasts disappear into the hotel... and 10 minutes later no food was visible. I found a back room with our food, two people wandering around (as far as I could see neither were preparing our food or putting it on plates) they didn't speak English so I went to find the reception woman. She was wandering around cleaning a table and chairs (admittedly, this was where they served us breakfast - so she was making it nice.... but she had an hour and a half to do this earlier). After I got a bit short with her about where the damn cooked breakfast that surely must be cold is, she did go inside, and 5 minutes later our breakfast arrived.

live fish (well, some live)

less live bugs mmmm bugs

We devoured it before they returned with butter and jam for the toast. Not sure if that meant we ate way too fast.... or shows how much longer they took to bring some butter for the eggs and toast.

The cooking class was much more fun! and much more delicious! We learnt to make 3 dishes and ate them..... and I will be hosting some Asian dinner parties when I return! I miss cooking for myself!

We got a market tour, bought some of the ingredients for the food and then learnt to make Beef Lok Lak, Fish Amok and spring rolls.

That night we headed off the see the Cambodian Circus. This was originally set up as an arts school for refugees in camps on the Thai border who did art therapy to help them after the Khmer Rouge. It was hugely successful and evolved to include dance, music and circus. The aim was partly to help people but also to prevent the arts from being lost because many artists were killed during the khmer rouge regime.

Now the school is set up in a very poor community which has a lot of problems with drugs / gambling / etc. They aim to get all the kids to school, and also teach them skills that they can use at the circus and to get jobs other places.

Me with the performers :) 

The skills of the guys were amazing! I loved it! I mean, I love most circuses.... but this was extra awesome! I actually plan to go again in the next few days in Siem Reap (they have a second school there!).

A trip to the zoo

We went on an adventure to the zoo / wildlife centre. And I was with two other people, so actually have photos of me for once!

Basically this place is owned by the government, but has wildlife alliance hanging out, fund raising and making the lives of animals better than in most zoos! Also running breeding and release programs. we paid the extra "donation" to do the behind the scenes tour with wildlife alliance instead of just turning up and wandering around ourselves. And we saw lions and tigers and bears.... oh my! (and elephants, and monkeys, and otters and snakes!)

First up we met Lucky the friendly elephant who was found as a 6 month old and raised by people. So she is very comfortable hanging around with people and being trained with food rewards. It was really interesting because they were talking about the bull hooks that the trainers have to carry (just in case she suddenly rampages and starts killing people) but you can see that she isn't phased at all by the hook. Not scared, or watching it... she just didn't really care one bit. So the take home message was that if you go to place with elephants.... check out how they react to the hook, even if they claim it is never used - if the elephants are watching it, or shy away, it is a bad sign. But also, everywhere will carry hooks just in case. Good to know I think.

 These two elephants both have a history of being violent with people. Neither were raised around people and so they are not able to be people-ised, or released.
The boy (with tusks) had most of his feeding ground cleared and turned into sugarcane. Which he thought was pretty swell, but the farmers were much less happy about an elephant sized hole in their cane each day so tried to scare and chase him away. This made Mr elephant pretty mad... and he started stomping down houses and people who got too close. So the wildlife guys came and rescued him!
The lady elephant was near a village and for a while the people enjoyed feeding her.... then it got expensive so they stopped. She liked the free food option better and started just taking whatever she wanted. Again, people tried to scare her off and chase her away. Even throwing acid on the poor girl. Eventually these guys found out and came to collect her.
Because of their amazing memories the elephants can't be released or they will just go on back to their original homes. but at least now they get to live their lives in safety :)

The last elephant lost one of his legs as a baby. most likely in a snare trap. He was raised around Lucky and people, but as he hit puberty started getting rough and so now they have to keep him behind a barrier while training and changing his prosthetic.










We also visited these tigers and their keeper. This zoo has 7 tigers that are some sort of cross-breed. The seized 6 (three pairs) as cub in a raid. One pair breed early on, but they are all on birth control as they don't really want to breed the strange mix breed tigers.
Apparently they also have one purebred indochina tiger and are hoping to get a mate for it to start a breeding program. The problem is the government can't understand why they want to import a purebred tiger when they already have 6 or 7 that are more or less the same.

The keeper obviously has a pretty amazing relationship with them, petting them, and making them lie down near the bars so we can pet them!

I think that a rule of buying an big camera should be that you at least understand how to not use your flash. some tigers would see a camera and immediately bare their teeth and growl. I couldn't really understand why until I noticed a couple of people using flash on the poor things even though it is really quite light and sunny. No wonder animals hate it when they see cameras! rant over!








I do particularly love gibbons! they have such giant long arms and beautiful eyes! Technically gibbons are apes... but i'm going to use the term monkeys for all primate like animals from here on in. So sue me!

mmmmm back scratches!

 This lovely lady is presumed to have been raised as a pet, then abandoned when she got too big and playful.unlike other monkeys she apparently doesn't mind eye contact (the others see this as a challenge and will attack) and she sometimes smiles at people she likes (other monkeys perceive teeth baring as a threat and will attack). Her last strange behaviour is climbing down to the bars and then turning her back on people. Most gibbons turn their backs as signs that they want nothing to do with you. This sweetheart likes to have her back scratched. When one person stopped she would climb as close as possible to someone else and turn around for a back scratching! So adorable! I just wanted to give her a big old cuddle!

getting my face painted

Lucky the friendly and rewards-based trained elephant painted shirts for everyone. She looked quite proud of her handiwork.... and I think she had a cheeky smile when her painting skills would get a bit enthusiastic and she would paint all over someone's face. With every brush full of paint she used she get a treat of some potatoes.

 Then it was time to visit the baby monkey cage! Part of our backstage tour included hand feeding these guys. It was a lot of fun! the hard part was the fact that looking them in the eyes, sudden noises (like laughter) and showing you teeth is not recommended as they might get scared and attack. So trying not to smile or laugh was a bit of a hard task!

We also have to remove anything the monkeys can grab, hair clips, glasses, jewelry. Poor Nancye had to keep a hand on glasses at all times to prevent them being stolen, and be able to see! the monkey on my arm got a bit sad when he dropped his fruit though.....

And launched himself at Nancye for a fierce tug of war, which ended in the monkey escaping with her glasses, and everyone else chasing the monkey to retrieve them.

The monkeys did enjoy suddenly launching themselves off one person and flying at your face in a fairly terrifying manner. They also enjoyed trying to dislodge anything that looked steal-able, such as the buttons on my shirt, or the tie on my pants (which one used as a swing a couple of times).
One monkey did become obsessed with my baggy pants, fortunately they just weren't quite baggy enough for him to climb up there!

is there food up here?

I'm ready for my close-up now

This monkey is more chilled

This guy heard puppy dog eyes are a good way to
get food to appear

All in all and awesome day! I thoroughly enjoyed being introduced to, painted by, and climbed on by all the animals! Totally recommend to anyone heading through Cambodia.... plus, the money helps save more animals!